Model Milk (Calgary)

I have been waiting to eat at Model Milk for what seems like several years now and this past Friday I finally got what I’ve been longing for.

My party of three arrived around 7:30 without reservations. We were in luck as a table inside had just opened up, otherwise the patio was a bit chilly.

First impressions: a beautiful building (Calgary’s old dairy) with first, second floor (right by the open kitchen too) and patio seating. Rustic yet elegant decor.

We started off our meal with glasses of Riesling and Pinot Gris – the waitress was spot on when we described what our palates were yearning (sweet and citrus-y, respectively).

For the appetizer we split the Dungeness crab rolls: delicious mini savoury french toasts stuffed with a light crab salad.

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The three of us were just a bit peckish so we shared one small and one large plate.

Lobster Bolognese – handmade ricotta cavatelli, pistachio and tarragon

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The bolognese was nice and creamy and the pistachio added great texture. Morsels of lobster however were minimal.

Driview Farms Lamb Rump – Eggplant puree, goat yogurt, black malt, olive jus

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Lamb was cooked perfectly (we like it on the rare side). The black malt (roasted malted barley) crust on the lamb added a nice smokiness. Eggplant puree was also very smoky, perhaps overpowered by the black malt. The bitter greens on the plate were too bitter for any of our liking.

Overall

Atmosphere: Exposed brick, unique table settings (a wood plank joins a couple of centre tables) and warm atmosphere

Food: Fresh and innovative. Sharing is encouraged. Technique was there, but taste a bit off (lamb dish specifically)

Price: large plates (entrées) range from $20-34

Would I come back: Yes, but not in a hurry. Staff were very knowledgeable and accommodating, but the price point was high for the dishes we sampled. I will be back to give it a second chance, but next time I will be sitting next to the kitchen to watch the chefs in action!

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